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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 01:15 PM #1 |
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![]() As you can see from piccy my coffee table is looking very tired and unloved, but i'm not very good with diy etc how can i revive this, there are pen marks, greasy finger prints and milk stains on it. Can i sand it down by hand with a very fine sand paper??? Also, i don't really like varnish so what's best to use on it afterwards, a wax or an oil???
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 01:39 PM #2 |
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![]() Yes you can sand it but use a medium sandpaper wrapped around a wood block. When your happy that all the marks are gone, finish with a very fine sandpaper. Dust it off, then take a cloth which is slightly dampened with white spirit and wash the whole area you sanded. Let it dry. Then there is stuff called Teak oil. You can use a brush but I prefer to use a cloth to apply it. It will take a few coats but you will have a natural looking finish with a soft sheen. I did this to some pine chairs a few years back. Make sure you are in a well ventilated area, a nice day outside even.
You can test it on a scrap of wood to see if you like it 1st. Lovely table btw. |
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 01:54 PM #3 |
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![]() Hi there. Love your table. As Gormal says sand it etc., but we did one and used beeswax instead of teak oil. It turned out really well. Best of luck with it. Regards Belarus
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 02:00 PM #4 |
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![]() ok this might sound stupid, but why do i have to wrap the sandpaper around a wooden block??? And why wipe it down with white spirit??
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 02:05 PM #5 |
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![]() The wooden block saves your hands and gives an even finish. Wiping it down with white spirit is supposed to seal it a little, I think. Just something I was taught to do.
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 02:20 PM #6 |
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![]() ok thank you, and where would you get teak oil and bees wax??
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 02:56 PM #7 |
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![]() Yes Gormal thats right. Any hardware store will have teak oil and bees wax.
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 05:40 PM #8 |
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![]() If you wanted to save it from future scuffs & pen marks if you get a big sheet of paper, put it on the floor, lay the table top down on it & trace the outline of the table top onto the sheet of paper, you can then take the outline of the table top to any glazer & they'll cut a sheet of glass to fit the top of your table.
Don't have to worry about any more marks, scuffs or heat marks from mugs & you can still see all your hard work & fixing it up under the glass. |
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 05:54 PM #9 |
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![]() thanks jennie, i've always wondered how people keep the bit between the glass & the table clean, and would the glass not slide off the coffee table bearing in mind i have a toddler who thinks jumping off the table is the best fun ever.
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 06:05 PM #10 |
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![]() Because it's flat on flat & glass is heavy enough it doesn't tend to slip or catch dirt underneath. On a smaller table like a coffee table you can use clear silicone around the edge of the glass to secure it down, it would dry clear like the joinings in a fish tank so you wouldn't really notice it. A good glazer would probably even secure the glass to the table for you if you brought it to them.
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 06:19 PM #11 |
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![]() there's lumpy bumpy bits (the design of the table) on my table so not sure the glass would work with it, might take from the look of it.
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 09:56 PM #12 |
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![]() Hi
If you have an active toddler, why not forget about the glass for a few years, and just go with the wax or oil. Its amazing how quickly they grow up, and surprising how things can get broken when they are small. All the best. murphs |
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 10:00 PM #13 |
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![]() yeah think i will try the wax or oil and see what happens, might leave the glass for another few years, not only is there an active toddler but 8 week old also who is gonna grow up watching his brother jump off the table and pobably be doing the same himself in another 2 years.
When i use the sandpaper do you do it lightly??? Cause i'd be more inclined to put a lot of weight into it?? And how do i know which sandpaper is medium etc?? |
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Posted: 25-03-2010 , 11:38 PM #14 |
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![]() see
http://www.generalfinishes.co.uk/ind...ge=preparation tells you about sanding and the paper. As for the pressure start off with a little pressure see how it looks, you don't want to leave deep scratches in the wood (as would happen if it was coarse sandpaper) think of it as a nail file ;o) the coarser the file the more you chip the nails..lol.. only trying to simplify it a bit and that was the best comparison I could come up with. I think a medium would feel twice as rough as an emery file. Failing all that ask the shop asisstant, that's what they are there for. Hope this helps |
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Posted: 26-03-2010 , 08:37 AM #15 |
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![]() thanks a million for the link gormal, lots of into there, now i am worried cause i don't know what type of wood it is, and it seems i should use different grades for different types of wood.!!!!
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